Today being Begemot’s fourth Gotcha Day, and it having been nearly three years since my last Bigi photo compilation, don’t you think it’s time for another?

I know: less talk, more photos! Here they are. Click for “Bigness”…

Big in flight! Toofs at the ready!
I needed an exfoliation Where's my complimentary beverage?!?
Gawd life is so hard! Raise your paws in the air like you just don't care!
Get your own; this one's mine! Derp?
What, you need assistance, monkey? The crazy: it's in me!
Touch mah box an' I'll cut ya! Caught the interior decorator napping on the job
Hard night last night How's a guy supposed to sleep with all these sunbeams?
Where are we going today? Where's that cribbage board?
I've been photobombed!

And if you want more, here’s a link to all my Bigi blogposts.

With a tall pile of empty cardboard boxes after a household shopping spree, I decided to manifest a little creativity.

Bigi's Castle

Bigi's Castle

With box-cutter and duct tape in hand, I sliced up, arranged, and secured a half-dozen large boxes, eventually producing a kitty castle with two grand entrances, a lofty royal hall, two balconies, and a rooftop deck.

Teh fluffeh is still getting used to the idea, but treats keep mysteriously appearing in the upper levels, so I’m sure he’ll take up full residence shortly.

For a virtual tour, see below…

When Inna and I visited Tiger Kingdom in Phuket, I mentioned to her that I’d never known that tigers have white spots on the back of their ears, and wondered what the heck that was about. I didn’t ask the keepers, and never learned the reason until a couple days ago, when I came across this photograph of a tiger bending low to get a drink of water.

Look carefully, and you’ll see something truly remarkable. Those white spots on her ears look remarkably like a pair of angry eyes. And if you extend that illusion, you will see the ladder of black stripes on top of her skull suddenly transform into the wrinkles along the muzzle of an angry beast, and the pointed white spots above her eyes become a fearsome set of bared fangs!

So while the real tiger is bending low in a vulnerable position, the pattern of coloring on her fur projects the illusion of a fierce and angry predator. It’s an amazing adaptation, made even more effective because the illusory tiger’s features are more pronounced—and therefore more prominent—than the real ones!

When I first saw this, I thought, “Wow, nature is pretty amazing to craft something that sophisticated from spontaneous natural selection. But then I took a step back, asking myself how could the mechanics of evolution possibly produce this? Tigers are an apex predator with little need for such camouflage; they have absolutely no predators except other tigers and man, and humans haven’t held mastery over tigers long enough to have that dramatic an impact on their evolution. So how could natural selection have produced such a coloring trait?

To be honest, I have no idea, which makes it that much more astonishing an illusion.

Over the solstice, I attended an 8-day silent meditation retreat with Bhante Gunaratana at his Bhavana Society retreat center in West Virginia.

Bhavana Buddha

Buddha in Bhavana's main hall

Bhavana Buddy

Bhavana Buddies

Dhamma Talk?

Is this a dhamma talk?

My Kuti

My Kuti

What Eighth Precept?

What Eighth Precept?

Bhante G. is a well-known Sri Lankan Buddhist monk, the author of the widely-read manual “Mindfulness in Plain English”. To be honest, I didn’t know he was located so close. When I learned that Bhavana is a three and a half hour drive from Pittsburgh, I was immediately motivated to go do a retreat, especially since I wouldn’t be inconveniencing Inna, who has been out of town for months on business. And at 90 years old, Bhante G.’s advancing age gave me an added sense of urgency.

Last spring, when I looked at the Bhavana Society’s schedule, one event immediately stood out: a jhana retreat planned for the end of June.

What’s “jhana”? Jhana is an intensive concentration meditation practice which predated the Buddha, which presumably leads to four increasingly subtle and esoteric mental states.

The jhanas comprise Right Concentration: the eighth component of the Buddha’s Noble Eightfold Path leading toward the ultimate goal of practice: the cessation of suffering. Once you have developed a high degree of equanimity through the jhanic concentration practice, you can use it (and the impermanence of those states) as a tool in Vipassana practice: the development of insight/wisdom through the internalization of the Three Characteristics of Existence (impermanence, unsatisfactoriness, and non-self).

That sequence—practice concentration, then use it to develop wisdom—is one of two ways that people approach Buddhist practice. The other approach, called “dry” or “pure” Vipassana practice, does it the other way around: meditators work directly to realize the Three Characteristics, and let their concentration skills develop as needed. Meditating on the Three Characteristics through Vipassana meditation comprises the seventh element of the Noble Eightfold Path: Right Mindfulness.

Virtually all modern western Insight Meditation centers go the latter route, teaching Vipassana meditation exclusively. They rarely talk about the jhanas, and often discourage jhana practice, believing that the preoccupation with mental attainments is an unnecessary diversion from the development of wisdom… if those presumed attainments even exist at all! Having “grown up” in that Insight tradition, I dismissed jhana practice for years as little more than legacy Asian mysticism.

But ten years ago I decided to read some of the original Buddhist suttas, specifically the Majjhima Nikaya: the Middle-Length Discourses (my 2007 blogpost). There I discovered that there’s a passage describing how a skilled meditator enters the jhanas as a preliminary part of practice. Moreover, that standardized passage is repeated in a lot of suttas: about 30 percent of them, IIRC. Appearing so frequently, it was clearly something the Buddha considered extremely important. From then on, I knew I couldn’t simply dismiss jhana practice; I needed to give it a fair and openminded trial.

I bought books and did online research, but couldn’t get past my confusion. On one hand, the “jhana factors” that arise are familiar to me: applied thought, sustained thought, single-pointedness, happiness, bliss, and equanimity. But on the other hand, the four jhanic states are subtle and difficult to judge, and I certainly hadn’t experienced any of the mental imagery (nimitta) or magical powers that supposedly precede them. Were they merely metaphorical? As an avowed empiricist, I had difficulty reconciling the presumed importance of these concentration practices with the mystical bullshit that accompanied them.

As a followup to his best seller, Bhante G. also wrote a book about the jhanas called “Beyond Mindfulness in Plain English: An Introductory Guide to Deeper States of Meditation”, which I also read. So when I learned his center was nearby and that he’d be leading a jhana retreat, I figured the time was right to go and try to resolve my longstanding confusion. That’s why—due to an unfortunate scheduling coincidence—I decided to stay home at our Tuscan villa on the day the Giro d’Italia bike race came by: so that I could guarantee my spot in Bhante G.’s jhana retreat as soon as they opened online registration.

To conserve Bhante G.’s strength, activities like dhamma talks, Q&A, and teacher interviews were shared, with three different monks taking responsibility for two days each. As a result, my understanding of the jhanas changed and evolved over the course of the week.

The first two days we were in the care of Bhante Jayasara, a young American novice. He addressed the groundwork for jhana practice: specifically, suppressing the negative mental states called the Five Hindrances: a straightforward and familiar practice.

During his Q&A, he shared his personal experience of a nimitta: a sign of deep concentration that’s often perceived as a bright light. I found his sharing informative and inspiring, especially his confirmation that the nimitta is not a visual perception, but a purely mental one.

Interestingly, he could only share this with us because he’s not yet a fully-ordained monk, since the Vinaya—the Buddhist monastic rules—forbids monks from contradicting the canon or discussing their own personal experiences and attainments. So if you’re looking for practical advice based on personal experience, don’t bother asking a monastic!

During his Q&A, I asked which of the Five Hindrances compulsive planning fell under and how to practice with it. Of course, the answer was somewhat nuanced. Planning is often useful, but could also be an expression of anxiety and discomfort with uncertainty. In the moment when the compulsion comes up, one should consider three things: what is the appeal of planning, how it might be problematic, and how to reframe one’s habits of mind to avoid following that pattern out of compulsion. As Bhante Jay summarized: “The gratification, the danger, and the escape.”

After that, the middle two days were handled by Bhante Seelananda, a middle-aged monk who was born in Sri Lanka and became a monk at age eleven. As a lifelong academic scholar, he has exceptional knowledge of the Pali canon (the Buddhist scriptures).

His talks covered Buddhist academic theory relating to the jhanas in unrestrained detail, reciting a litany of passages in Pali and lists of theoretical esoteric mental states. Less of a dhamma talk and more of a collegiate lecture, it was the first dhamma talk I’ve ever attended that included a slide deck presented with an overhead projector and laser pointer!

With a straight face, he reported the magical powers the canon associates with the jhanas: the abilities to fly, read minds, recall past lives, and clairaudience.

At no time did he share any personal reflections or practical advice, limiting himself to reporting the content of the Pali canon as if it were literal truth. I’m not sure whether that was because the monastic rules prohibited him from contradicting the Buddhist writings, or whether his childhood upbringing within the monastic community rendered him an indoctrinated faith believer incapable of critical thought.

In either case, he had zero practical advice to share that would have benefited his audience of lay practitioners. As you might imagine, his circular reasoning and arguments from false authority didn’t sit well with an objective materialist like me.

After coming into the retreat with an open mind and specifically looking for practical help, I was getting discouraged and felt that I was wasting my time. I was ready to conclude that the jhanas are simply not a useful concept. Sure, concentration practice is important in habituating oneself to meta-thinking; the Five Hindrances are things we can all relate to; even the “jhana factors” I listed earlier make sense in the context of quiescing the discursive mind. But the four jhana states themselves sound like abstract, magical mumbo-jumbo.

And even if they are real, someone has got to find a better way to teach them. One doesn’t learn how to whistle by being told “Just blow long enough, and it’ll happen”; and one doesn’t learn how to swim by being told “Keep splashing around on your own and one day you’ll magically become a master swimmer”. You need someone to directly show you the techniques of how to whistle, how to swim… and how to meditate, achieve, and recognize these abstract, theoretical mental states.

For me, no matter how much of the official doctrine Bhante Seela cited, the jhanas simply don’t pass the Kalama test. In the Pali canon’s Kalama Sutta, the Buddha tells the Kalama tribe to accept as true only those teachings that one has personally verified are skillful, blameless, praiseworthy, and conducive to happiness; and to expressly reject teachings that derive from blind faith, dogmatism, and belief spawned from specious reasoning. And the jhanas demand a whole lot of the latter.

After Bhante Seela’s academic theorizing, the final two days’ talks were given by Bhante G., and I was eager to hear how he would follow up. Thankfully, as a non-academic, Bhante G. is more personable and more encouraging than Bhante Seela, which was reassuring in itself.

In the meditations he led, he ended each sitting by reciting verse 372 of the Dhammapada, one of the earliest Buddhist texts:

There is no concentration without wisdom,
Nor wisdom without concentration.
One who has both wisdom and concentration
Is close to peace and emancipation.

This is the central theme of his teaching. Here “concentration” is a reference to jhana practice, and “wisdom” is shorthand for Insight or Vipassana practice. While the two are often considered completely separate practices, Bhante G. says they are parallel roads, different but complementary ways of reaching the same destination. After all, Vipassana constitutes Right Mindfulness, the seventh element of the Buddha’s Noble Eightfold Path, while Right Concentration (the jhanas) comprises the eighth. That helped me put concentration practice into a better perspective.

But where I most benefited from Bhante G.’s wisdom was in the group interview I attended, where I was able to ask “How can you tell you’ve reached a jhana state if you don’t experience something as unmistakable as those bright-light nimittas?” His answer was packed with insightful nuggets.

First, one should look at those factors that co-arise with jhana: applied thought, sustained thought, single-pointedness, happiness, bliss, and equanimity. Those are a lot more concrete than the four abstract jhana levels. He said that entering the first jhana isn’t that hard to do for an experienced practitioner, but it’s a subtle and difficult thing to see. He said I might have achieved it many times, but who can say? You just have to judge for yourself. The important thing is to just practice. Concern yourself with your own mind, not the esoteric theories about signs and levels.

His advice was personal, immediate, practical, and encouraging… way more useful than any of the infographics Bhante Seela had presented. I’m so glad that I got into this retreat and had the opportunity to have an exchange with him, while he is still well enough to teach. It was touching when, on the last day of the retreat, I ran into him on his daily walk and we exchanged smiles.

So where did I wind up as far as jhana practice? While I didn’t get confirmation that jhanas exist or not, I did get a degree of practical clarity. Taking Bhante G.’s words to heart, I’m not going to pay a lot of attention to the jhanas. I’ll continue to practice meditation of various flavors (Vipassana/Insight, concentration, and samatha/calmness), with the main focus on evolving my relationship to desire, aversion, impermanence, ethics, and renunciation.

With that, let’s dump all this philosophy. “How was it?” I hear you asking. Well, lemme tellya…

Long retreats hurt. Despite their obvious benefit, I dread them. Even though I use a meditation bench, long periods of sitting hurt both my knees and back, and my knee pain turned severe this time. On top of that, my yogi job was washing dishes, and their sinks are definitely not at a height for normal-sized humans.

There’s also an odd kind of discomfort associated with heightened mindfulness. I would spend all day building up my mindfulness, only to find it difficult to relax and fall asleep at night, because I was so busy noticing and observing everything. Once you’re in that mental state, you can’t simply shut it off, which in my experience leads to a particular kind of retreat fatigue. I find that far more uncomfortable than the more-frequently reported discomfort returning to mainstream society following a long retreat.

Rather than being put up in a dormatory, for the first time ever I got my very own kuti, a tiny one-person cabin off on its own, used as a living space by monastics. It was little more than an uninsulated wooden shed, with a twin mattress and just enough space to squeeze around it on three sides. No electricity, but two windows. I guess it fit the modern idea of a “tiny house”. Thankfully, there weren’t too many insects inside, though I was still glad to have brought bug repellent. I was assigned the cabin named “Panna”, which is Pali for “wisdom”.

The weather. The first three days were hot and sunny, which I enjoyed, despite the lack of aircon. Although the heat was supposed to hold all week, the weather turned very rainy and cold from Wednesday through Sunday. Several times so much rain fell that the short, grassy downhill path to my kuti spontaneously turned into a rushing brook!

Flora and fauna everywhere. Poison ivy. Fireflies. A deer outside my kuti one morning. Termites or something loudly trying to bore into the kuti all day and night long until the rains came and drove them off. Ridiculously loud and annoying tree frogs that trilled back and forth to one another from 8pm to 11pm, sounding for all the world like dueling car alarms. Great for practicing equanimity, but not so great for actually sleeping.

And Buddy. We were told that we’d see Buddy, their tabby cat, who might come and sit in your lap. Monday evening, during a ten-minute break between sittings, I ran into him outside the main building, introduced myself, and made friends. I sat cross-legged in the driveway, and he climbed into my lap and promptly fell asleep. I saw him a couple more times, but he too disappeared once the rain started. I mused that although I hadn’t experienced the Buddhist concept of “no-self”, I did understand “no-Buddy” (nobody).

Other oddities, for your amusement…

Bhavana’s retreat FAQ suggests bringing earplugs, and those were key! I’ve already mentioned the nightly amphibian car alarm chorus and the termites or whatever was chewing its way into my shack. On top of that, the kuti came with a battery-powered clock whose second hand ticked louder than its built-in alarm; I yanked its batteries on the second day. Then the pounding rain on the kuti’s roof topped it all off. Without my earplugs I wouldn’t have gotten any sleep at all.

There’s always one… Normally people claim a spot in the meditation hall and have one zabuton (mat) and one zafu (a tall cushion) or meditation bench. One guy sitting a couple rows in front of me built and sat atop a ziggurat composed of no less than three zabutons, a square cushion, two zafus, and another square cushion, with a bench nearby, just in case. He was perched more than two feet off the floor! Which I think is a violation of the vow we took on the first day to uphold the Eight Precepts, specifically the vow to refrain from using high or luxurious beds and seats. Ridiculous!

The food. Normal people always crow about how great retreat food is; I’m too finicky for that, but I found everything surprisingly palatable. Plus there were a couple treats, such as Nutella, Gatorade, and one day we got orange juice. They also provided Sriracha sauce, which I found helped many dishes, except loading up on it wasn’t always the best idea, since I usually didn’t fetch anything to drink with my meal! Still, when the retreat ended, I made a quick stop at Dairy Queen for a Dilly Bar, then grabbed a cola and potato chips to enjoy on the drive home.

My yogi job washing dishes provided some entertainment. I’m used to turning dishwashing gloves inside-out to dry, which is difficult to do unless you know this secret: blow into them like a balloon to reverse the fingers. But somehow I managed to explode two gloves by blowing too hard into them! They blew up with impressively loud bangs during an otherwise silent retreat!

At one point (for some unknown reason) the cook pulled me aside to tell me he thought I looked like Frank Zappa. “Maybe it’s the ponytail?” That’s a new one on me. In the past I’ve drawn comparisons to David Beckham, Steven Seagal, Fabio Lanzoni, and (in a swipe from the ex-wife) Star Trek’s emotionless Mr. Spock.

Even with all this zaniness, it was a good and productive retreat, although three weeks later my knees are still recovering. I was able to meet and practice with Bhante Gunaratana, a cherished teacher whose career is nearing its conclusion; and I gained some clarity about how to practice with and relate to the jhanas (or not). It gave me what my practice needed, and was quite a memorable experience.

Upon coming home, I felt a huge sense of relief. Not because of the retreat, but because I had concluded four months of frequent travel: two weeks gallivanting around Asia in March, a week in Italy in May, and another week on retreat in West Virginia in June. It’s nice to visit new places, but home will always be home, and I was eager to hole up for a while in a familiar place. I wouldn’t mind if there were a few less-eventful weeks in store for me now!

Since my March trip to Southeast Asia wasn’t enough travel, in May I spent a week in Tuscany, just outside Florence, Italy.

Long before Inna accepted a six-month work assignment in Malaysia, her not-too-far-flung immediate family held a small reunion in Washington DC. They enjoyed that gathering so much that they decided the only way to improve upon it would be to repeat it… in Italy! Thus plans were laid.

Villa South Exit

The villa driveway, lined with olive trees

Villa Southwest Side

Our villa and grapevines seen from the road

Villa South Side

The south side of our villa, with backdrop

Villa South Side

Arches and patio on the south side

Ornoth in Tuscany

I’m in a Tuscan villa!

Villa East Side

West side villa entrance

Villa North Side

North side patio & our bedroom

Inna & Ornoth @ Villa

Inna & Ornoth on the north patio

Tuscany Daybreak

Tuscan daybreak

Villa Bedroom View

View from our villa bedroom door

Villa Northwest View

More farm villas northwest of us

Villa Northeast View

To the northeast: hillsides

Villa East View

Villa east of us

Villa East View

Eastern villa framed

Villa South View

View south, toward the road

Italian Cypress Cones

Italian cypress cones

Pottery Gravel

Pottery gravel

A Poppy in the Road

A poppy in the road

Tuscan Flowering

Tuscan flowery

Stray Felis

Stray felis has something to say!

Understanding that I’m very much not a family person, Inna offered me the option of staying home. However, the closest I’ve ever gotten to Europe was a 2002 trip to Scotland, and it was also a chance for us to spend more time together in the middle of her long work assignment in Malaysia. Furthermore, Tuscany has a well-advertised reputation as a cycling paradise.

It even seemed like the right thing to do financially! I’d just closed my mother’s estate and received my share of her residual assets. She would have wanted me to use the money for something fun, rather than simply socking it away, and my using some of it on a trip to Europe would have pleased her. Though she would have raised a forbearing eyebrow at my earlier trip to Malaysia, Thailand, and Singapore!

Booking our flights was challenging. Back in March, Inna had obtained her tickets through her employer, piggy-backing an Italy stopover onto the end of a company-paid visit home from Kuala Lumpur. I purchased my flights separately a month later, which made it very difficult for us to travel together; more on that below.

When May rolled around, Inna came back to Pittsburgh for a brief but welcome stay at home before our departure for Florence.

Friday, May 11 2018

We had a relaxed day, with oddly-timed evening departures. I was booked on United 6015 from Pittsburgh to Dulles, leaving at 7:30pm. Inna’s Lufthansa flight 8797—also from Pittsburgh to Dulles—was scheduled to leave just ten minutes later.

Although convenient, having two flights ten minutes apart to the same destination seemed bizarre. So I looked into it when I checked in, and discovered that LH 8797 was just a codeshare with UA 6015. So although we were on different flight numbers, on different airlines, with different departure and arrival times, we were actually on the same flight!

Although Inna was out shopping at that time, I signed into the Lufthansa site under her name and changed her seat assignment so that we could sit together, which was a pleasant surprise.

We had dinner at an airport restaurant, where Inna had a veggie burger with real bacon: something she can’t get in Muslim Malaysia. I had pulled pork with jalapenos over french fries and two colas, which caused a lot of inopportune cramping on the brief flight to DC. Fortunately, I was distracted from my gastric distress by a Debbie Harry-lookalike stewardess, complete with platinum blonde hair, stiletto heels, and drugged-out demeanor. Once I had a love, and it was a gas…

We enjoyed the traditional people-crawler transfer at Dulles and noted the stark, outdated architecture, recalling that our friend Sheela’s father had helped construct the terminal buildings. Then it was time for the big intercontinental redeye from DC to Munich.

I’d known from the start that we would be together on this flight, and had booked myself a seat just across the aisle from Inna. However once we boarded, our goal was for me to swap seats with the person next to her. The guy was cheerfully willing, so we happily got to be together once more! It made the travel much easier for both of us.

Neither of us sleep well on planes, and that proved true again this time. And while we were in the air, not sleeping, we crossed over into:

Saturday, May 12 2018

A little after noon local time, we arrived in Munich. It was my first-ever landfall in continental Europe, and my new record for farthest travel to the east (having set new high-water marks south- and westward six weeks earlier). And upon entering the European Union, we each got a new piece of German “cheese” at immigration. I should mention that we call passport stamps “cheese” because it’s the little reward we traveling rodents seek at the end of the rat-maze of stanchions and rope cords.

The Munich airport was a wonderful experience. No televisions, no crowd-control music… even the people were quiet! So refreshing!

However, here Inna and I finally had to go separate ways. When I’d booked my travel, her 2:40pm flight had been full, so I was relegated to the subsequent flight, four hours later. At her gate, we learned that the guy I’d swapped seats with on our last flight was also headed to Florence. He and Inna struck up a conversation and boarded the bus to their flight; meanwhile I had something to take care of…

When we’d arrived in Munich, it hadn’t been clear whether we had to do the baggage claim-and-recheck shuffle upon entering the EU. We’d just skipped it, but having received “baggage exception” warnings by text message at both Dulles and Munich, I decided to ask an attendant what we should do. He said to exit the terminal and go to baggage claim, which I did. When our bags weren’t there, I went to the lost baggage counter, where a helpful woman told me that our bags would automatically be sent on to Florence. This was happily confirmed an hour later, when Inna landed and retrieved her bag.

Meanwhile, I went back through a security checkpoint into the terminal for my 7:05 departure. At the far end of an hour and a half flight to Florence, my bag jauntily popped out of the carousel, and I went outside to catch the rental car shuttle. I got no Italian “cheese” for travel within the EU.

I was a little wary of the car rental agency, since Inna’s sister and her boyfriend had just been declined by theirs. However, with my international driving permit in hand, my experience went smoothly. In a few minutes I was piloting a sizeable manual-transmission diesel Peugeot SUV onto the notoriously challenging streets of Italy, in the dark!

Fortunately, I’d downloaded offline data for Google Maps, and its directions were unambiguous and accurate. I made my way to the highway, negotiated an interchange onto the toll Autostrada, got to my local exit, and paid the toll in Euros I’d converted in Munich. But then I discovered the challenges of the Italian street network.

Oh my gawd! Ridiculously steep hillsides, blind turns every 300 meters, and roads rarely wide enough for a car and bicycle to pass, never mind two cars. In many places it’s so narrow that only one car can pass, and there are signs indicating whether cars approaching the bottleneck from one direction or the other have right of way! It reminded me of driving on Caribbean islands like St. John and St. Thomas. Although frequently maligned, I found Italian drivers predictable and safe; it’s the roads that are insane!

Eventually I found the right unmarked gate on the right tiny back road that led to the villa that Inna’s family had rented in Mezzomonte, halfway between the suburban towns of Impruneta and Grassina. At the end of a long gravel driveway between olive trees, I parked to find Inna, her mother, her father, her sister, and her sister’s boyfriend sitting outside on a terrace enjoying the evening.

After suitable greetings, I found the bedroom, unpacked, and settled in for a good night of sleep.

Sunday, May 13 2018

Everyone’s primary goal Sunday morning was to sleep off their jet lag, get settled, and stock up on groceries. That suited me, especially since I wanted my own cache of food and couldn’t rent a bike on Sunday.

When I got up, I noticed text messages from Inna’s sister, saying she and her father were leaving for the grocery. I quickly messaged back that I wanted to go with them, and wound up climbing up the hill to the gate to meet them as they waited.

They’d found a substantial grocery store in Grassina, where—after briefly trying to shop collaboratively with Inna’s foodie relatives—I strode off on my own and expeditiously got the things I needed for the week.

Back at the villa, Inna gave me a tour of the 15th century farm, which included a pool, several patios, two kitchens, a tower loft bedroom, and wood-fired bread oven. With a view over the olive trees and grape vines to the cascade of distant ridges and valleys beyond, it was picturesque and idyllic. Inna and I also appreciated the eclectic collection of foreign-language books, and the framed artwork mounted at cat’s-eye level!

We had an informal group lunch of pasta, accompanied by lots of linguistics talk that switched between Russian, Italian, English, and Spanish, with a little French, German, and Hebrew thrown in. Supper was boiled chickpeas and a tomato salad, thankfully accompanied by meatballs.

All told, a quiet day of getting settled and exploring the villa. The weather was surprisingly cool for Tuscany and partly cloudy.

Monday, May 13 2018

I got up and gathered some early-morning photos in a heavy overcast. I discovered that in such an ancient place, the gravel roads are nearly half comprised of old shards of broken pottery, so I collected a few interesting bits to take home as mementos.

Having purchased 72-hour tourist passes, the family all left for the first of three days in Florence. Having other plans, I made myself breakfast, then drove to a bike shop in nearby Falciani and rented a bike. I brought it home and took a short but effort-ful six-mile spin as a shakedown ride.

Rather than going into it here, I’ve put all the details about my cycling exploits into my Tuscany cycling blogpost on my cycling blog. Read that if you want more detail about my rental bike, rides, and impressions of Tuscany as a cycling destination.

While the family had dinner in Florence, I enjoyed having the villa to myself and making my own supper. When the family returned later that evening, they retreated directly to their respective rooms and climbed into bed.

Tuesday, May 15 2018

Inna decided to stay at the villa and spend Tuesday with me, while the others returned for another day in Florence. It was a quiet day with very English/European weather: heavy overcast, cool and breezy, with about 10 percent sun and 20 percent rain.

Inna and I made an afternoon trip to Impruneta, then off to neighboring Tavarnuzze to hit a small grocery, since Inna hadn’t come with us on Sunday. Pulling out of the parking spot, I scraped the side of the car against a plastic bollard. The barely-noticeable marks were just enough to evoke some added anxiety for the rest of the week, having heard rumors of Italian rental places aggressively charging foreigners for damages both new and pre-existing.

Wednesday, May 16 2018

Woke up to another day of cool rain and overcast. I had to agree with our friend Noah, who compared it to Oregon. Tho to be honest, my numerous trips to the Pacific Northwest have all been graced by better weather than we had in Tuscany.

Everyone set off for a final day in Florence. Although I had little faith in the weather, I decided to attempt a modest 27-mile ride. I experienced missed turns, pouring rain, closed roads, and the route I’d downloaded from the bike shop went off-road onto impassable farm paths. I abandoned the bike shop’s route and proceeded on busier but well-paved primary roads. You can read more about the ride in my Tuscany cycling blogpost.

After returning to the villa, I made myself another chicken dinner, making best use of the villa’s limited spice selection. The family, after having difficulty with their car’s headlights the night before, got home early and made pasta carbonara for dinner, which I sampled and enjoyed, despite having eaten already.

Thursday, May 17 2018

Having exhausted their tourist passes, Inna’s sister and father took off and explored historic San Gimignano, while the others stayed at home and rested.

One of the things I’d most looked forward to was spending a day at the Giro d’Italia, a major three-week professional cycling stage race, the Italian sister event to the Tour de France. Stage 12 finished in Imola on Thursday, two hours’ drive each way, which was as close as it would come to Florence.

However, at the exact same time as the Giro stage finish in Imola, online registration was going to open for a meditation retreat that I absolutely wanted to get into. Ironically, while meditation retreats are a haven of silence and peace, they’re also in high demand, so the registration process can be as competitive and frenetic as trying to secure tickets to a Pink Floyd or Led Zeppelin concert. If I wanted to get in, I had to be online when registration opened.

There was no way to do both, and in the end I stayed home and registered for the retreat, missing the Giro in much the same way as I’d missed the Tour de Langkawi professional bike race during my recent visit to Malaysia.

In addition, I wanted to get one last bike ride in on Thursday, because I had to return the rental the next morning. Although I’d hoped to get at least one long ride in, I had to be back at the villa by 3pm to register for the retreat.

So I set out for a short ride down into the Chianti region and back, this time following only primary roads. When the clouds opened up and poured on me again, I was glad I hadn’t planned anything more ambitious. Again, more details in the Tuscany cycling blogpost.

Supper was more pasta with the family, then a round of an Italian “spaghetti western” game called “Bang!”, followed by a silly Russian game called “Privyet Valyet”.

Friday, May 18 2018

After breakfast and a group photo, the family set off to visit Siena. I would have eagerly tagged along and checked out the Torre del Mangia—the inspiration for Boston’s Pine Street Inn and Provincetown’s Pilgrim Monument—but I had to return the bike to the rental shop. While out, I saw numerous cyclists out on the roads, enjoying what wound up being the first warm, sunny day since we’d arrived.

Back at the villa, I ran a load of laundry, checked into my flights back to Pittsburgh, and tried to eat as many of the leftover groceries as I could.

When everyone came home, a stray tuxedo cat who’d been hanging around the neighborhood showed up, so I hustled Inna outside, where she made a new friend.

The villa’s guest book advertised lots of local sights and services, and Inna’s father and sister had secretly contracted to have a recommended local chef come to the villa and prepare dinner on our last night at the villa as a surprise offering for Inna’s imminent birthday.

The menu included eggplant, gnocchi, chicken, zucchini, and ricotta. The more culinarily adventurous enjoyed it, although it was difficult for me. I would rather have selected my own food, especially right before a 21-hour journey.

Saturday, May 19 2018

For the first time in a week, the morning of our departure provided a sunny, cloudless sky, and temperatures well into the 70s.

After final packing and loading up the car, we went downstairs to the owner’s patio for a light breakfast. Inna and I had to leave for the airport at 10am, so we said our goodbyes to everyone else, as they would later drive up to Venice to spend another day or two.

Despite missing the on-ramp for the Autostrade, Inna and I got into town, returned the rental car, hopped the shuttle, and got to the airport in reasonable time. At baggage check, I got stuck behind five American girls (exchange students) and their 15 pieces of luggage, and noted that in the line and throughout the airport the population was a solid 75 percent female.

My flight (to Pittsburgh via Frankfurt and Chicago) was at 1pm, but Inna’s (to Kuala Lumpur via Amsterdam) wasn’t until 5. Because it was too early to check her bag, she was unable go through security to see me off, so we said our goodbyes and I continued to my gate, while she killed time on her own. It’ll be another 2-3 months before I see her again.

After another bus-to-the-plane and boarding, I was seated in the middle of thirty of those American girls heading home. But I did enjoy when the Lufthansa stewardess offered, “Haben sie ein schön und schnell pflug.”

90 minutes to Frankfurt, where I got my EU exit visa stamp and boarded the long 9-hour flight to O’Hare. I think it was my first time in a 747, and I wasn’t looking forward to it, since I’d had to take an internal middle seat, rather than my usual window. I was surprised to find that I was seated in a bulkhead row, and that I’d booked a “premium economy” seat, which was a noticeable upgrade from cattle car. So although I couldn’t sleep, the flight was tolerably uncomfortable…

… except for landing behind schedule, which was the beginning of O’Hare Airport Hell. Our late arrival ate 30 minutes out of my 2-hour layover, followed by an extended delay getting off the 747. I fast-walked to customs only to see a line of people waiting. Huh, a long line. No, a fucking unbelievable line! A line—with no exaggeration— two or three people wide, the length of two football fields. So much for my connection!

Somehow, the line started moving, and I eventually got through customs and immigration. From there it was all lightning-sprint through baggage claim, baggage re-check, the inter-terminal tram, through Concourse B, and the underground moving walks to Concourse C. As I reached my gate, they were boarding the last stragglers of Boarding Group 4, and I was the fourth-to-last person to board.

It was ironic that with a two-hour layover I’d barely made my connection, while we’d been very concerned about Inna having less than 90 minutes to make her connection in Amsterdam, which she made quite comfortably. But at least I made it!

The short flight to Pittsburgh was my 16th flight in the past 6 weeks, and six of those flights have been longer than 7 hours; so I was extremely happy to finally be headed home! The only remaining question was whether my checked bag was coming home, too.

To my relief, my bag was the second one out of the baggage claim carousel, proudly bearing a big orange and black “Express Connection” sticker. It being shortly after midnight local time, I was eager to get home and crash. I hopped in the car, blitzed home, greeted a very affectionate house tiger, and climbed into bed at 1am. Inna was still in the air, with 2 hours left before landing on the opposite side of the planet, followed by an hour cab ride.

Overall

With certain caveats, it was a nice trip. Our villa was exquisite and serene, with a beautiful view overlooking vineyards, fields of olive trees, and wooded Apennine ridges. The villages were full of character and charm, and the roads scenic and pleasant. I got to spend more time with Inna, while also doing the things I preferred, like exploring the area by bike. Rather than hustling through museums and restaurants and tourist meccas, I prefer luxuriating in the natural environment and intimately experiencing the countryside.

Tuscany: whether you are into cycling, art, history, architecture, or food, it’s supposed to be amazing. But with such a lofty reputation preceding it, I expected a lot, and wound up disappointed in ways that are important to me.

The weather obviously wasn’t what I’d been led to expect from Italy. The days of cold rain—which the bike shop owner described as “terrible”—severely curtailed how much I could ride, and diminished my enjoyment of what riding I did do. That might not seem like a big loss to some people, but as a cyclist it was a primary goal of my trip, which I reserved several days for.

The other cause of disappointment was the coincidental timing of the nearest Giro d’Itala stage, the opening of registration for my meditation retreat, my desire to do a long ride, the family’s expedition to Siena, and having to return the bike early on Friday. Sadly, registering for the retreat and returning the bike on time were the least interesting but most important options in that list.

While Tuscany didn’t live up to its reputation or my own expectations, it was still a worthwhile and enjoyable trip, especially for Inna, whose perspective you can get here. Despite Tuscany’s allure and reputation as a cycling paradise, after a succession of cold, wet rides, I was glad to get back home to Pittsburgh, where it’s warm and sunny at least part of the time!

Villa South Side Pano

Panorama of our villa, looking north over the hills

It having been over a year since my initial Begemot photo post , I suppose it’s time for a few more images of our special guest star.

He still exhibits completely catatonic midafternoon shutdowns, as described last time, which Inna & I take as ideal times for molestation.

But he has developed one really cute/strange behavior. One of his first toys was a squeaky weasel stuffed animal. Every evening, about two minutes after we turn out the light, he trots off to find it. Once he’s got it, the little guy—who virtually never meows at all—starts howling and crying like it’s a bloody emergency. That lasts maybe 30 seconds until he trots into the bedroom, carrying the weasel in his mouth, and offers it to us. Then he quiets down and settles into bed for the night. And in the morning, he’ll usually get up and bring it with him into the living area (usually without the verbal announcements). It’s pretty hilarious, but equally adorable.

His other favorite toys include shoelaces, the brown construction paper sometimes used as packing material (see below), and he’ll come like a flash if he hears anyone crumpling up a credit card receipt. Between all that and his diverse collection of boxes, the floor’s always a bit of a mess.

It doesn’t take a lot to keep the boy happy, and he definitely has reciprocated by keeping Inna & I happy.

Click for teh bignesses.

Begemot in a box Contemplative Begemot
Begemot in the Group W box Begemot hunting in construction paper
Begemot thinking Begemot staying dry
Begemot and the queen-sized bed Begemot on the armchair
Begemot and Ornoth Begemot goulash

Three months after his arrival, Begemot pretty much owns the place.

Although he doesn’t have any purr or mipp, he does meow for us when he hears us outside the apartment on the way home. He’s an avid washer of himself and anyone who comes within reaching distance. And in the afternoons he goes completely catatonic, easily moved and repositioned like a large, furry action-figure.

Despite being diametrically opposed in almost all things, he’s one decision that Inna and I both enthusiastically approve of. We agree that we got an exceptionally awesome little furbaby who makes hanging around the house a lot more fun.

As always, click for teh bigness.

Begemot portrait Begemot upside-down
Begemot & Inna Begemot reclining
Begemot's ball Begemot relaxed
Begemot's pillow Begemot naps
Begemot toofs again! Begemot head crash
Begemot standing Begemot toofs

On April 8th, Inna and I adopted our first joint-custody cat, an 18 month old longhair tuxedo whom the shelter had christened “Trent”.

The biggest problem we’ve had with him has been choosing a suitable new moniker, since “Trent” did nothing for any of us.

I brainstormed a list of 55 names I’ve suggested, and I’m sure Inna’s list was equally long; the problem being that we each hated the other’s.

The ones we came closest to agreeing on included: Begemot

And then there were some awesome ones that I offered which were summarily rejected, like:

Ultimately Inna came up with something that we could both appreciate, being unique, humorous, and utterly surreal. The little guy will forevermore be known as:

Бегемот

Yes, that’s Cyrillic, because it’s a Russian name (in case you don’t know, Inna’s a first-generation transplant from Ukraine). For those readers who don’t read/speak Russian, you can approximate the pronunciation via the English mnemonic: “Big-Emote” (which apparently horrifies my live-in native speaker). Or, if you have the technology, you can play Google Translate’s pronunciation here.

Okay, I get it: Big-Emote. What’s it mean?

Here’s where things get interesting, because Begemot has *lots* of meanings.

Let’s start with the most basic. Begemot. The Russian word comes from a Hebrew word “behemah”, from which also derives the English word “behemoth”. Hence “behemoth”: a huge or monstrous creature. Good name for a cat, even if our little guy isn’t even ten pounds yet. Although given the size of his ridiculous outrigger paw-pontoons, he might just grow into the name…

As a proper noun, Behemoth is also a specific Biblical monster, the land-borne equivalent of the ocean-borne Leviathan. The Book of Job identifies him as “the first of the works of God”, a grass-eater who shelters in the reeds and marsh. Interpreters seeking a real-world manifestation of the passage have most often associated Behemoth with the hippopotamus, and sometimes as an elephant, rhinoceros, or buffalo. So Begemot is an official Old Testament Hebrew name, too!

Which brings us back to Russian, because in the mid-1700s, Russian language speakers dropped the word “gippopotam” in favor of “begemot” for the hippo. Hence a second interpretation that points toward the hippopotamus! Maybe not the best name for a cat, but certainly unique!

Begemot

And finally we come around to the literary referent. Begemot is the name of a character in a very prominent and well-known Russian novel: “The Master and Margarita” by Mikhail Bulgakov. While I haven’t read it, it sounds like something of a dreamlike surrealist description of Christianity and atheism in pre-WW2 Soviet USSR.

In the novel, Begemot isn’t just your average character. His Wikipedia entry describes him thus:

He is an enormous (said to be as large as a hog) demonic black cat who speaks, walks on two legs, and can even transform to human shape for brief periods. He has a penchant for chess, vodka, pistols, and obnoxious sarcasm. He is evidently the least-respected member of Woland’s [Satan’s] entourage; Margarita [the heroine] boldly takes to slapping Behemoth on the head after one of his many ill-timed jokes, without the fear of retribution. His Russian name Begemot means hippopotamus, but also refers to the legendary Biblical monster. He is known for his jokes which he never stops telling.

So there we have it. Begemot: a huge creature, an Old Testament monstrosity, who is twice-over associated with hippopotamuses, and simultaneously an enormous anthropomorphic talking black cat who is Satan’s pageboy.

With all that going for it, it was hard to resist adopting that name. So now we have our own little Begemot running around the house. Let’s hope he doesn’t start showing any of his namesake’s attributes!

Prior to getting our own cat, Inna and I welcomed her mother’s cat into our house for three weeks while she was traveling. Kika aka Pumpy is quite a character, known for hiding her toys (and the occasional passport book) in caches underneath rugs, staring you down with her thoroughly cross-eyed gaze, and her extremely broad range of utterly incomprehensible vocalizations.

Here are a handful of shots I took to remember her visit by. As always, click for teh bigness.

Pumpy photo Pumpy photo
Pumpy photo Pumpy photo
Pumpy photo Pumpy photo
Pumpy photo Pumpy photo

“Kinda bored on a Wednesday morning, I guess I’ll go see what’s shown up in the ol’ RSS reader. Ah, the Humor folder. Really nothing in there but LOLcats from the I Can Has Cheezburger site, but I like cats, and the captions are often worth a smile… Delete… Delete… WAIT A FREAKIN’ MINUTE THAT’S GRADY!

So that was my morning surprise. Yup, someone took one of my photos of my cat, posted it on ICHC, and over a dozen people have added LOLesque captions. And for whatever reason, one of them was posted to ICHC’s RSS feed and thus straight to my mailbox.

Although unintentional, that caption was particularly apt, too: Praying? No… Imagining this around your throat… Yes!

You can see them below and click for bigness, or just go to the photo’s index page on ICHC.

How do I know that’s Grady? Well, aside from knowing my own cat, I’m also a photographer and know my own pictures. The original was posted to Flickr here back in 2008. For more words and pictures about Grady, read my post after he died last year.

Interestingly, this isn’t the first time a photo of mine showed up on ICHC. Back in 2009, a coworker uploaded an embarrassing photo of an eagle that I’d taken on my trip to Scotland in 2002. You can see the resulting LOLpix and read my reaction in this blogpost. It provided a very handy template for this posting!

What I said then about the eagle pictures applies equally well to the LOLcats people have made of Grady: it’s a little slice of notoriety that I find amusing, and it’s interesting to see what captions other people have added to it.

I kinda wish he was here to see them…

Original Grady photo
Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat
Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat
Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat
Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat
Grady LOLcat Grady LOLcat

I started taking casino blackjack seriously about ten years ago, and the venue for three-quarters of my gambling junkets has been Foxwoods. Over those years, they’ve been very good to me.

A frequent birthday ritual has been to take the day off and drive down to Connecticut, play some blackjack, and then stop off at Purgatory Chasm on the way home.

The timing of this year’s trip was a little interesting for three reasons. First, it occurred during my last week working at Buildium. Secondly, the remnants of Hurricane Patricia—one of the most powerful storms on record—passed through New England the night before. When I left that morning, the overnight rain clouds were just beginning to break up, promising a beautifully warm and breezy day. And finally, this would be my last trip to Foxwoods before moving away.

Foxwoods chips

Upon arriving, I first went to their Fox Tower casino. I wanted to check it out, because I hadn’t been there since a 2011 loss, back when it was the MGM and brand new. Sadly, all they had were $1 tables, which was an obvious waste of time. So I hoofed it back to my usual haunt at the Grand Pequot.

Once I sat down and started playing, all the chips just got sucked into my gravity well. It took a mere 23 minutes to achieve my predetermined “win” threshold, so I got up, took a deep breath, and cashed out.

It might seem silly to drive four hours and only spend a few minutes at the table, but I don’t go to a casino to play games; I go to win. Winning makes me happy, and you can’t win if you don’t walk away when you’ve won. And if it only takes 20 minutes to achieve my goal, then the sooner I get out of the casino the better! Except, well, I did stop to have a big ice cream before I left…

So that was my last expedition to my favorite casino. They had the most favorable rules I’ve come across, and I’ve only lost on one of my past eight trips, which exceeds all reasonable expectations.

However, that may not be my last opportunity to find a good game of blackjack. There’s a casino right in Pittsburgh, and their state law mandates rules that are even slightly better than Foxwoods’, who annoyingly started hitting soft 17 a couple years back. So we’ll just have to test whether the Pennsylvania government are going to be as generous to me as the Mashantucket Pequots of Connecticut!

Of course, since I was in the area, a stop at Purgatory Chasm was also required. It’s always an amazing, fun, breathtaking, spiritual place, which inevitably provides a dramatic juxtaposition with the overstimulation and consumerism of the casino. The warm weather was a special blessing on what will probably be my last visit there, as well.

And because I was in a self-indulgent birthday mood—and because it was National Cat Day—on the way home I stopped by Boston’s Angell pet adoption center and socialized a few cats, just for fun. It’s been just over a year since I lost Grady, and there’s been a lamentable lack of feline presence in the house.

So overall it was a good day, even though it was the last time for this particular set of rituals.

When we love someone, we hold their story within our hearts. When they pass, it’s incumbent upon us to bring that story forth and hold it shining like a gemstone for all to see.

Thus, I have to tell Grady’s story.

Two years after my first cat passed away, I was ready to add a new member to my household. In September of 2007 I went to the MSPCA’s Angell Memorial shelter and met a little gray cat. When I petted him, he had a very loud, easy purr, and I decided that he was the one.

The tag on his cage said his name was “Grady”, which is strange, because the previous owner had written “Grey” on the info sheet when she surrendered him. Of course, the tag also said he was “about 3 years old”, when the owner had said “one year”.

Grady
Grady perched
Grady belly
Grady boxed
Grady's neighborhood
Grady leaps
Grady snuggling
Grady Schemes
Grady begging

I’d thought I was getting an adult cat, but he really wasn’t much more than a kitten, and he had the energy and temperament to match. In the early years, he would often full-on attack me, drawing blood mostly with his teeth. When I got an animal behaviorist in, she tried to play with him until he was exhausted, but after 90 minutes of that without pause, she declared him “99th percentile”.

It got to the point where I was almost convinced that I would have to get rid of him, but we persevered, and I found that putting him in isolation when he misbehaved finally got the message through. He even figured out that if he really needed to play, he could come up to me, sit up on his haunches, and beg with his hands together. And if I wasn’t paying attention, he could tap my elbow with his paw first.

Play for him meant jumping for bouncing ping pong balls or leaping for potholders tossed like frisbees. He even played with little toy cars, rolling them around on the hardwood floor! But his favorite toys were the rubber wristbands that used to be popular; he’d run and chase them, then chew them up until they were destroyed. If you threw his stuffed toy pheasant, he’d run after it at full tilt, grab it with his forepaws, and do a complete somersault before administering a killing bite and bunny-hop kicks.

As he matured, he mellowed and came to trust me completely. Of course, whenever I came home, I could expect him to trot up and meet me at the door. He’d come snuggle any time I was on the couch, or nestle in the crook of my arm as I sat up in bed reading. If I was working at my desk, he’d come drape himself over my shoulder. We even got to the point where I could reliably hold him in my arms and rub his belly.

He was a good leaper, jumping across the kitchen from the island counter to the top of the fridge. He’d also jump several feet up and grab onto “his” particular part of the brick wall separating the kitchen and living room, or atop his scratching post. Every time I was on the toilet, we’d have to play grab-tag in the gap beneath the bathroom door. With people and loud noises, he was absolutely fearless… He had only one mortal fear: tinfoil!

Another daily ritual was feeding time. He was fed twice a day by an automatic feeder, and really knew how to tell time! Two hours before dinner, he’d start nosing around. With an hour to go, he would constantly prowl around. With 20 minutes left, he was downright agitated. And as feeding time neared, he’d pace around the feeder in high excitement, often biting it. I told him, “Don’t bite the device that feeds you!”, but that particular lesson didn’t seem to sink in very well. I think he knew exactly what it meant when I sang the “It’s almost time!” dinner song for him.

Speaking of music, Grady had both his own song, poem, and a special rhyming haiku. The song goes like this:

Grady, Grady, Grady cat:
Him not no average little ’fraidy-cat,
But him meows like a little lady cat…

His poem is:

My cat is full of grayness,
From his whiskers to his anus;
It seems to be quite painless.

And that rhyming haiku? Voilà:

My cat’s named Gradle;
He ate a raisin bagel:
It wasn’t fatal.

Perhaps his most unique trick was this: when he was watching you, if you held your hand out and rubbed your fingers together, his eyes would slowly close, as if from happiness. Very strange, but cute!

I’ve included a few good photos in this post, but I really suggest checking out all of Grady’s photos on Flickr. There are some real special pictures in that collection that capture his personality.

None of that, of course, says much about what he meant to me. Let’s just say he was a dear, dear friend, who made every day much better than it would have been without his warm presence.

So, what happened, and why is he gone?

On September 4th, we celebrated the seventh anniversary of his adoption with the traditional wet food treat. He was due for inoculations, so six days later I took him to the vet for his annual checkup. At that point, everything seemed fine, and continued that way for the following week.

The eighth day after his vaccination was Thursday the 18th, and he was his usual active self. The next day, he was lethargic and (for the only time in his life) ambivalent about food. I decided that I’d bring him to the vet if he didn’t improve overnight.

Since he didn’t improve, I brought him in to the vet first thing Saturday morning. He had quite a fever, so they kept him until 4pm, giving him IV fluid and antibiotics.

At the end of the day, he hadn’t improved, and since the vet was closing and wouldn’t be open on Sunday, they advised me to bring him to the animal hospital at Angell Memorial: the same shelter I’d adopted him from.

After an anxious cab ride, I brought him into Angell Saturday night. The doctor planned to run a bunch of tests and give him more fluid and antibiotics, which meant Grady would probably be in the hospital for a couple days.

Sunday his temperature had come down a little, but he wasn’t eating. All the tests they ran came back with only minor variations from normal. More tests needed to be done.

On Monday morning his temperature was back within the normal range. Monday afternoon I got a call from the doctor saying that he seemed normal and stable, but he still wouldn’t eat for them. Given that, she suggested I bring him home, in hopes that he’d be more comfortable and more liable to eat in a familiar environment. I just needed to wait a couple hours for them to get him ready to go, until 8:30pm.

At home, I cleaned out his food, water, and litter containers, in hopeful anticipation of his return. At 8pm, just as I was getting ready to leave, I received a telephone call from the woman who was getting him ready. “He’s in respiratory arrest. Do you want us to resuscitate him? We need an answer right now.”

What? But his fever had broken! The vet had pronounced him stable! Four days previously, he had been a lively and happy cat! And he was only eight years old! This wasn’t supposed to happen!

I was utterly staggered. Grady had spent three days in the hospital, but they had absolutely no idea what was wrong with him. The woman on the phone tried to be tactful while reminding me that even if they resuscitated him, it was likely to be only a temporary, short-term thing. Could I ask Grady to go through more trauma than he’d already endured? Was this his way of telling me that he’d had enough?

In the end, I took it as a sign that it was time for me to let him go. I told them not to resuscitate. They called back five minutes later to tell me that he was gone.

Grady—my lovely baby!—was gone!

I spent most of that night howling the horrible animal pain I felt. The comments I got from friends on Facebook were helpful, albeit to a limited extent. The next day, when I talked to the doctor, I agreed to spend the money to perform a necroscopy seeking answers about why he died.

Ultimately, the necroscopy was of no more use than any of the veterinarians who had treated him. Grady had a few minor health issues, but they found nothing life-threatening. Was his death due to a reaction to his vaccines? Was there anything the vets didn’t do (or anything they did) which contributed to his demise? There was simply no evidence to base an opinion on.

So now he’s gone, and we will never know why. It sucks mightily that we had such a short time together. I was so happy, and I really expected to have a lot more than just seven short years with him.

One of the most difficult emotions is my sense of responsibility for his unexpected and premature death. I mean, I used to look him in the eyes and tell him, “I *own* you…” And he trusted me so meekly when I brought him to the vet for his checkup. And yet, twelve days later he was dead, despite my feebly ineffective good intentions. And his well-being was 100 percent my responsibility. That guilt tears me up from the inside.

The condo, without him and all the cardboard boxes, the toys strewn all over, the food, water, and litterbox: it feels as if I’ve had a roommate move out. The place is silent and empty and lifeless. It might seem odd that living alone feels so radically different than living alone *with a cat*, but so it is. While my friends’ sympathy certainly helps, life just isn’t the same without my lovable little guy.

Seven weeks before Grady’s illness, I rode in my last Pan-Mass Challenge, and spent Sunday night after the ride at my hotel in Sandwich, on Cape Cod. Monday morning, my support person and I went and explored the Sandwich boardwalk, a quarter-mile foot bridge crossing a tidal marsh, connecting a parking lot to the town beach. After storm damage, it had been rebuilt in 1992 and again in 2013 with money raised by allowing people to purchase inscriptions in each wooden plank of the deck.

As we walked along, we read a sampling of planks. As I neared the beach end of the boardwalk, my eyes landed on one which simply read: ♥ U GRADY. Whatever the original intention had been, the plank reminded me of my little roommate, whom I hadn’t seen for four days. For all the feelings that reminder of him evoked, I stopped to snap a picture of it.

I didn’t know then that Grady had only a few weeks left to live.

That photo I impulsively took is now a very poignant memory and perhaps a fitting memorial in honor of my trusting and faithful little roommate, for whom I held so much affection, and who had brought so much warmth and joy into my life. Blessed be, my little one! I’m so, so sorry.

(heart) U GRADY

Despite this being Boston’s second least snowiest year on record, Inna and I had planned a week at a resort between Cancún and Playa del Carmen.

This was my first trip to Mexico, and it was perfectly timed. Two weeks before we left, the State Department issued a major travel advisory which greatly expanded an earlier warning about travel in Mexico.

The trip was planned a week and a half after a date I had for jury duty. As you can imagine, I was immediately empaneled on a trial considering 11 counts of indecent contact with a minor. Cutting an *extremely* long story short, after spending two days in the empanelment process, the judge asked the jurors whether anyone had issues with a trial lasting a week or so, and I informed him about my trip. He eventually dismissed me, much to my relief.

And a few days before the trip, I came down with a head cold. Fortunately it didn’t seem to bad, but it was perfectly timed to peak on the travel day.

And as if those omens weren’t bad enough… My alarm went off at 4:50am so that I could make my flight to Cancún. On one final check of the internet I learned that there had been a fire less than a mile from the airport. Coincidentally, the alarm had come in at 4:47am, just three minutes before my phone woke me up. Better still, it was in a small restaurant named Rosticeria Cancún”!

After a quick flight to Charlotte, NC, I met up with Inna, who had just arrived from Pittsburgh. Waiting in the international departures area, we considered flights to St. Thomas or Montego Bay before finally boarding our flight. Fortunately, the dry atmosphere of the cabins allowed me to travel without too much discomfort from my cold.

Arriving in Cancún, we snaked through the immigration and customs mazes and received our “cheese”: the first stamp in my renewed passport. We stepped out into the warm sunlight and hopped the van that drove us 24 miles south to Punta Maroma and down the long, bumpy dirt road to our hotel: the Catalonia Playa Maroma.

Resort Style
My Palapa
Los Coatíes de Playa Maroma
Full Photoset

The nice thing about Punta Maroma is that it’s small and somewhat isolated. There are only three or four small resorts, rather than the tourist hell that is Cancún. Although it’s only a few miles from Playa del Carmen, we never did get off the tourist reservation and into town.

Having let Inna plan the trip, she’d opted to go the all-inclusive resort route. Although since neither of us drink, we really weren’t able to maximize the value for the all-inclusive price. Normally I prefer to go independent and not be stuck on a tourist reservation, but I was willing to give it a try, since I wasn’t real comfortable as a gringo wandering around Mexico alone.

One reason why I don’t like the resort experience is that I feel very uncomfortable in the role of the privileged white foreigner. I don’t like being waited on, I don’t like haute couture, and I dislike the impression of being the elite, with the locals there only as servants. It’s really distasteful to me.

On the other hand, it also afforded me a uniquely multicultural experience. Naturally, I picked up a lot of Spanish, which I’d never studied before. Since most of the guests were French or Quebecois, we heard a lot of French, and used some ourselves, since we’ve both studied it. We also heard a lot of Italian, plus some Russian and German as well.

Inna and I both enjoyed the more relaxed relationship Europeans seem to have with their bodies: her because of the diversity of body shapes and swimwear, and me for the occasional topless sunbather.

We checked in and settled into our room. The grounds were very nice and generally not too noisy except around the beach and the pool. The decor was very attractive and the room thoroughly clean and comfortable. We had a very large balcony that overlooked the building’s courtyard. The beach was very nice, and supplied with ample chaises, palapas, and hammocks.

The weather remained the same all week: sunny and mid-80s, with an occasional puffy cloud to decorate the sky. There was a constant wind, which contributed to much larger than expected breakers. I’d estimate the swells at 3-8 feet, which were fun to float in (initially).

The main negative about the resort was the food. Since we’d already paid for our meals, there was no pretense of serving quality fare. While there was a wide selection, the fare was usually comprised of a few mediocre-grade raw materials. Basically, we could eat there, but by the end of the week the low quality and lack of diversity had us longing for something else.

Another annoyance for me… I had planned to spend a bunch of my “Where’s George” marked dollar bills down there, as well as some bills from other folks, just to spend them somewhere interesting. And I’d brought a handful of bills to enter down there, as well. Well, as it turns out, the guy who owns Where’s George has blocked pretty much the entire country of Mexico from using the site, so there’s virtually no chance that any of those bills will ever be entered again, and certainly not in Mexico. Thanks, Hank. Way to ruin the whole point of WG?.

On the positive side, we had some awesome animal companions. The long, jungle-lined walkway between the buffet and the beach was the home to a couple dozen coatis (video), whose presence and antics were the highlight of each day. In the evening, the little plaza with shops was the abode of a rough-looking but quite outgoing grey and white cat whom we befriended. And we enjoyed seeing the pelicans diving into the sea and the frigatebirds soaring above the beach.

My cold quickly melted away, and we settled into a daily pattern which involved getting up pretty early to reserve our spot on the beach. We’d hang out there until the sun grew strong in the late morning, when we’d have a snack and retreat to the room to relax and maybe snooze. We’d return to the beach mid afternoon, and stay there until the sun fell behind the coconut palms lining the beach. Then we’d go to the room to shower and visit the buffet or one of the “restaurants” for dinner before turning in.

One of my goals for the trip was to help Inna learn to snorkel. She’d never done it due to wearing glasses, but her lasik ended that excuse. After days of postponing it, we took her to the resort’s pool and she donned my mask and snokel. After months of protest, I’d expected to have to handhold her through getting used to breathing through the snorkel and putting her face in the water, but within three minutes she was floating around exploring the pool and its “ecosystem”, much to her own amusement.

After about ten minutes, she proclaimed herself ready to try snorking the reef that was about a half mile offshore. We booked a time we thought was for snorkelers only, but wound up being a mixed group of six snorkers and another eight or so SCUBA divers.

However, because of the divers, we were dropped off on the ocean-side of the reef, rather than the lee-side. That meant rougher seas, which forced us to stay in deeper water to avoid being thrown onto the reef by the surf. So we never got shallower than about 20 feet. We saw a few fish, but really nothing interesting. Furthermore, our guide kept us moving, giving us no rest and exhausting some folks as he dragged us into ever deeper water with less and less stuff to see. Overall, I found it a very disappointing experience.

The high seas also made for a lot of up-and-down motion, which wasn’t a good choice for Inna’s first snork. She wound up being nauseous and aborted her swim, climbing back up onto the boat, whose up-and-down action wasn’t any better. She was pretty green until we finally picked up the divers and got her back to shore.

Basically, it had been a very unpleasant experience for her, but she hadn’t complained at all. While I felt really bad for her, I was also incredibly proud of her for being game to try it, for bravely jumping off the boat a half mile from land, and for sticking it out despite being sick, all without a single complaint. She really surprised me and showed a reservoir of hidden strength I hadn’t known before.

Fortunately, that happened when we only had two days left, because after that experience Inna (understandably) had absolutely no interest in swimming in the ocean. At the same time, she was studiously avoiding exposure to the sun, since she’d gotten a serious sunburn on our first day. A seaside resort really isn’t much fun if you can’t stand either the sun or the ocean, and mediocre food on top of it all, so after that our vacation kind of lost energy and trailed off.

The flight home was a bit of a challenge. The leg from Charlotte to Boston was delayed by an hour, then we dealt with constant turbulence due to a large storm. Although Boston’s forecast predicted about 5 inches of snow, we really only got a dusting, but it certainly was cold, wet, and dark, and stayed that way for several days.

Although we were pretty much ready to leave at the end of the week, it was a very good vacation. It was great seeing Inna and creating some new shared memories. It was fabulous being away from work, back in the Caribbean again, and having nothing to do but enjoy the warmth and strong sunlight and our animal friends. Aside from a couple minor annoyances, it was pretty damned nice.

[Error: unknown template qotd]

Well, on one hand, I have referred to both Grady and the Puggle as my “roommate”

But on the other hand, I also have also taken great relish in staring them down and repeatedly saying to them, “I *own* you!”.

And when you think about it, doesn’t being called a “pet” imply just as much imbalance as having an “owner”?

I just don’t understand why people put so much effort into arguing about semantics when that energy could be applied to something that might produce real meaningful change.

Last weekend’s Pittsburgh trip: not much to talk about.

Saturday morning, a package I’d ordered arrived: new Teva sandals. I put them on and went for lunch at the Prudential mall food court, which was overrun with costumed attendees of the Anime Boston convention. Pretty surreal.

Joy of Life
Allegheny Cemetery
Pumpy cat
Prawn the cat
Full Photoset

Grabbed my bag and left home, but on the way out, I received another package I’d been waiting for: a second battery for my video camera. Threw that in my bag and made my way to Logan.

The flight was fine except the descent into Pittsburgh was bumpy due to wind. The woman next to me squealed on touch-down. Weather a balmy 82 degrees but overcast.

Hit a grocery store that Inna wanted to visit, then dinner at Maharaja, an Indian restaurant tucked inside a Days Inn by the highway. It was set in a long-abandoned ballroom, with used dinner plates littering several of the many empty tables. To my horror, Inna violated my first rule of Indian—never order the buffet!—and it delivered in spades. Spots in the steam table labeled rice and naan were empty, and what food there was looked like it had been sitting on the Sterno for months. At least they didn’t serve Goat Bone Curry like Ajanta used to!

Since Inna’s mother was traveling, we stopped by to feed her cats Theo and Pumpy, then called it a day.

Sunday was Easter, so I tried to get Inna to sample a chocolate bunny, but she refused. We spent a mostly lazy day doing not much of anything, since most places were closed for the holiday. We walked around Shadyside and had ice cream at Oh Yeah!, then drove around at random, ending up having a nice walk around the reservoir at the summit of Highland Park.

After feeding mom’s cats, we went to a place called Thai Cuisine on East Liberty, which was unmemorable, then home so that Inna could study.

Monday I walked down to the Fifth Third Bank and snagged some small bills, then off for ice cream at Klavon’s. Drove around Lawrenceville, and saw three deer in Allegheny Cemetery. Back in Squirrel Hill, we stopped at Radio Shack to pick up Livestrong wristbands for the cats to play with, and chocolate for us.

Dinner was a burger at the Elbow Room in Shadyside, which wasn’t bad, then we went home and played “Wits & Wagers” and some “World of Goo” game on Inna’s Wii.

Tuesday I packed up and we hit the Waterworks Mall where Inna shopped for clothing while I picked up some Eneloop batteries and found a kitten to play with at Petco. We made our way out to Moon Township and had a tasty lunch at Mad Mex before saying our goodbyes at the airport.

All told, it was a very low-key visit, which seems pretty typical of Pittsburgh. Atypical, however, were the mediocre meals, since my experience has been that the thing Pittsburgh usually gets right is its food. But the weather was pretty gorgeous for early April, which made a nice change from the freezing cold of my previous two visits. Mostly it was good to see Inna, since she’s been buried up to her eyeballs all year with work for the one-year sustainability MBA program she’s enrolled in.

Since I seem to have a large contingent of yinzers in my flist, I’ll post this brief writeup of last week’s PIT trip.

Pittsburgh skyline
Allegeny River ice
Allegeny River ice

Since food seems to be the majority of what PIT is good for, here’s the run-down.

  • India Garden on Atwood: been there three times now, and still feel they’re passable, but nothing special.
  • Mad Mex on Atwood: very tasty enchiladas, but they fought with my internals. Went at 3pm and so avoided the raucus college crowd.
  • Pamela’s on Forbes: as always, very good but insanely greasy and too much food.
  • Green Mango on Braddock: not bad. New Thai place. Grabbed a fistful of Thailand tourism pamphlets for future reference.
  • Klavon’s Ice Cream on Penn: odd retro place with eerily friendly staff, but an awesome Pecan Ball with caramel. I’d do that again!
  • Oh Yeah on Highland: okay ice cream place. Somehow both reminiscent of JP Licks and yet nothing special.
  • Mario’s South Side Saloon on E Carson: very good burger, for a second choice after the Fat Head had a 45-minute wait at 3pm.

Other activities included: a very profitable trip to Papermart on Baum, where everything (including red mini-Sharpies and big glass markers) was seventy percent off due to the store closing; a damned cold walking photography expedition from Heinz Field, around the Point, up to the Seventh Street Bridge and back down past PNC Park (full photoset here); sharing my Scotland photos and travel info with Inna’s mean friend Monika; meeting Inna’s new cats Pumpkin and Prawn; and just generally driving around and getting a better idea of Pittsburgh’s neighborhoods and what they’re like.

Took JetLoo for the first time; seemed no different from any other airline, except the ground crew were a lot more potty-mouthed (pun intended) than on Merkun, Untied Airlines, or USHair.

Wasn’t a bad trip. It was nice to have a reason to break the camera out, even if it was really too cold to do a lot of work with it.

On the first day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      A false sense of security.
 
On the second day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      One smashed glass ornament in shards on the living room floor.
 
On the third day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      Another smashed glass ornament in shards on the living room floor.
 
On the fourth day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      One more smashed glass ornament in shards on the living room floor.
 
On the fifth day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      One miraculously whole glass ornament wedged under the love seat.
 
On the sixth day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      One smashed glass ornament in shards under the love seat
      and a miraculously whole glass ornament on the living room floor.
 
On the seventh day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      Nothing, ’cos I was home to supervise the little bugger!
 
On the eighth day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      Nothing, ’cos I was home to supervise the little bugger!
 
On the ninth day of Christmas teh fluffeh gave to me:
      Three smashed glass ornaments in shards
      and the entire Christmas tree lying on the living room floor.

Monday marks Grady the Cat’s first adoptaversary. I really haven’t written about him or posted any pictures since his first couple weeks at home. That’s partly due to my five-month travel assignment.

I have taken pictures of him, but he’s not as photogenic as I once hoped, mostly because he’s not a very patient subject, so few of them have made it to Flickr or my LJ. You can see the ones I have taken here.

How can I describe life with Grady? In many ways, it’s great. He’s not a fussy eater. He doesn’t scratch furniture. He’s usually not noisy or destructive. He doesn’t have litterbox issues. He doesn’t spray or mark. He’s a pretty good cat, in all respects but one.

Grady

He’s one aggressive muthafuxx0r.

You’d think a cat would enjoy spending time sunbathing in a south-facing bay window in a fancy Back Bay apartment, watching all the pedestrian activity on shi-shi Newbury Street. He’s even got sparrows, pigeons, and seagulls to stare and chatter at when he gets bored.

But no. My cat’s got ennui. No, not just ennui; my cat’s got ANGST. Angst like Arlo Guthrie on the Group W bench: he wants ta kill. I mean, he wants ta kill. He wants ta see blood and gore and guts and veins in his teeth. Eat dead burnt bodies. He wants ta kill, Kill, KILL, KILL!

Unfortunately, the only other living thing in my apartment happens to be *me*, and I’m not about to become “prey” to any twelve-pound ball of teh fluffeh, even if he does have nasty big pointy teeth. It’s kind of a pity, because he’d be an ideal farm cat, where he could go out and run and hunt and kill all day and all night long.

So after a year, during which time I’ve utterly failed to train this behavior out of him, I finally called for an exorcist. Today a Senior Applied Animal Behaviorist came by—along with two veterinary student observers—and we talked about Grady’s “case”.

Basically, the diagnosis is boredom combined with an inhuman—or infeline—amount of energy. They played with him for ten minutes, the point at which point most cats will get tired and go for a lay-down. After 80 more minutes of vigorous, non-stop play the Senior Applied Animal Behaviorist got tired and declared that Grady is “ninety-ninth percentile”, and that he’ll remain this hyperactive for a minimum five more years.

Meanwhile, I got all kinds of advice. A lot of it is geared toward finding ways to entertain and exercise him, so that he has an outlet for all this satanic energy other than mad killing sprees. We also discussed deterrence, drugs, and acquiring other living creatures for him to disembowel, ranging in sizes from crickets up to fostered shelter cats. The idea is to redirect his persistent demands for human sacrifices.

In the end, only time is going to tell whether I can live with this killing machine or not. But at least now I’ve some well-educated support and some ideas to try. Wish me luck…

Scope Creep

Mar. 6th, 2008 11:07 am

For decades, I kept a fixed list of my three necessities of life. It was a nice, simple, straightforward list. Easy to remember, easy to communicate, and unchanging.

However, a couple years ago I added catness to the list, expanding to four the number of things I need to be happy. The list became a bit more bulky, but four isn’t too many things to juggle, right?

Today I realized there’s a fifth necessity of life: sunbeams. Over the past few years, I’ve really become something of a sun worshipper, and commuting between Boston and St. Thomas has really underscored how dramatically sunlight impacts my mood.

But I’m concerned that my list of necessities of life has grown from three to five in the past couple years. Is my list becoming too big to manage?

One final observation: four of the five are sensual things, and the fifth is materialistic. Not sure what that says, but it’s kinda interesting to note.

So here's a quick example of Grady doing the advertised begging/praying/clapping thing.

In this clip he kinda gets carried away, batting at some imaginary object, but usually he just does the simple begging move.

Interestingly, a search on begging cats brings up the description of the all-grey Chartreux breed, which includes the following passage:

It's not unusual to find "praying" Chartreux. Some kittens start this spontaneously when very young; if you see this, you can encourage the little one by dangling a toy in front of the kitten. In any case, it seems to be a quite natural behavior for some Chartreux and they retain this characteristic behavior all their lives, frequently "begging" for food or affection by this praying attitude.

I'd actually looked at the Chartreux while researching grey cats, but decided I didn't need the headaches of a purebred. But it looks like Grady's got enough Chartreux to exhibit classic breed behavior. And rather odd behavior it is! See for yourself...

Frequent topics