Over the solstice, I attended an 8-day silent meditation retreat with Bhante Gunaratana at his Bhavana Society retreat center in West Virginia.

Bhavana Buddha

Buddha in Bhavana's main hall

Bhavana Buddy

Bhavana Buddies

Dhamma Talk?

Is this a dhamma talk?

My Kuti

My Kuti

What Eighth Precept?

What Eighth Precept?

Bhante G. is a well-known Sri Lankan Buddhist monk, the author of the widely-read manual “Mindfulness in Plain English”. To be honest, I didn’t know he was located so close. When I learned that Bhavana is a three and a half hour drive from Pittsburgh, I was immediately motivated to go do a retreat, especially since I wouldn’t be inconveniencing Inna, who has been out of town for months on business. And at 90 years old, Bhante G.’s advancing age gave me an added sense of urgency.

Last spring, when I looked at the Bhavana Society’s schedule, one event immediately stood out: a jhana retreat planned for the end of June.

What’s “jhana”? Jhana is an intensive concentration meditation practice which predated the Buddha, which presumably leads to four increasingly subtle and esoteric mental states.

The jhanas comprise Right Concentration: the eighth component of the Buddha’s Noble Eightfold Path leading toward the ultimate goal of practice: the cessation of suffering. Once you have developed a high degree of equanimity through the jhanic concentration practice, you can use it (and the impermanence of those states) as a tool in Vipassana practice: the development of insight/wisdom through the internalization of the Three Characteristics of Existence (impermanence, unsatisfactoriness, and non-self).

That sequence—practice concentration, then use it to develop wisdom—is one of two ways that people approach Buddhist practice. The other approach, called “dry” or “pure” Vipassana practice, does it the other way around: meditators work directly to realize the Three Characteristics, and let their concentration skills develop as needed. Meditating on the Three Characteristics through Vipassana meditation comprises the seventh element of the Noble Eightfold Path: Right Mindfulness.

Virtually all modern western Insight Meditation centers go the latter route, teaching Vipassana meditation exclusively. They rarely talk about the jhanas, and often discourage jhana practice, believing that the preoccupation with mental attainments is an unnecessary diversion from the development of wisdom… if those presumed attainments even exist at all! Having “grown up” in that Insight tradition, I dismissed jhana practice for years as little more than legacy Asian mysticism.

But ten years ago I decided to read some of the original Buddhist suttas, specifically the Majjhima Nikaya: the Middle-Length Discourses (my 2007 blogpost). There I discovered that there’s a passage describing how a skilled meditator enters the jhanas as a preliminary part of practice. Moreover, that standardized passage is repeated in a lot of suttas: about 30 percent of them, IIRC. Appearing so frequently, it was clearly something the Buddha considered extremely important. From then on, I knew I couldn’t simply dismiss jhana practice; I needed to give it a fair and openminded trial.

I bought books and did online research, but couldn’t get past my confusion. On one hand, the “jhana factors” that arise are familiar to me: applied thought, sustained thought, single-pointedness, happiness, bliss, and equanimity. But on the other hand, the four jhanic states are subtle and difficult to judge, and I certainly hadn’t experienced any of the mental imagery (nimitta) or magical powers that supposedly precede them. Were they merely metaphorical? As an avowed empiricist, I had difficulty reconciling the presumed importance of these concentration practices with the mystical bullshit that accompanied them.

As a followup to his best seller, Bhante G. also wrote a book about the jhanas called “Beyond Mindfulness in Plain English: An Introductory Guide to Deeper States of Meditation”, which I also read. So when I learned his center was nearby and that he’d be leading a jhana retreat, I figured the time was right to go and try to resolve my longstanding confusion. That’s why—due to an unfortunate scheduling coincidence—I decided to stay home at our Tuscan villa on the day the Giro d’Italia bike race came by: so that I could guarantee my spot in Bhante G.’s jhana retreat as soon as they opened online registration.

To conserve Bhante G.’s strength, activities like dhamma talks, Q&A, and teacher interviews were shared, with three different monks taking responsibility for two days each. As a result, my understanding of the jhanas changed and evolved over the course of the week.

The first two days we were in the care of Bhante Jayasara, a young American novice. He addressed the groundwork for jhana practice: specifically, suppressing the negative mental states called the Five Hindrances: a straightforward and familiar practice.

During his Q&A, he shared his personal experience of a nimitta: a sign of deep concentration that’s often perceived as a bright light. I found his sharing informative and inspiring, especially his confirmation that the nimitta is not a visual perception, but a purely mental one.

Interestingly, he could only share this with us because he’s not yet a fully-ordained monk, since the Vinaya—the Buddhist monastic rules—forbids monks from contradicting the canon or discussing their own personal experiences and attainments. So if you’re looking for practical advice based on personal experience, don’t bother asking a monastic!

During his Q&A, I asked which of the Five Hindrances compulsive planning fell under and how to practice with it. Of course, the answer was somewhat nuanced. Planning is often useful, but could also be an expression of anxiety and discomfort with uncertainty. In the moment when the compulsion comes up, one should consider three things: what is the appeal of planning, how it might be problematic, and how to reframe one’s habits of mind to avoid following that pattern out of compulsion. As Bhante Jay summarized: “The gratification, the danger, and the escape.”

After that, the middle two days were handled by Bhante Seelananda, a middle-aged monk who was born in Sri Lanka and became a monk at age eleven. As a lifelong academic scholar, he has exceptional knowledge of the Pali canon (the Buddhist scriptures).

His talks covered Buddhist academic theory relating to the jhanas in unrestrained detail, reciting a litany of passages in Pali and lists of theoretical esoteric mental states. Less of a dhamma talk and more of a collegiate lecture, it was the first dhamma talk I’ve ever attended that included a slide deck presented with an overhead projector and laser pointer!

With a straight face, he reported the magical powers the canon associates with the jhanas: the abilities to fly, read minds, recall past lives, and clairaudience.

At no time did he share any personal reflections or practical advice, limiting himself to reporting the content of the Pali canon as if it were literal truth. I’m not sure whether that was because the monastic rules prohibited him from contradicting the Buddhist writings, or whether his childhood upbringing within the monastic community rendered him an indoctrinated faith believer incapable of critical thought.

In either case, he had zero practical advice to share that would have benefited his audience of lay practitioners. As you might imagine, his circular reasoning and arguments from false authority didn’t sit well with an objective materialist like me.

After coming into the retreat with an open mind and specifically looking for practical help, I was getting discouraged and felt that I was wasting my time. I was ready to conclude that the jhanas are simply not a useful concept. Sure, concentration practice is important in habituating oneself to meta-thinking; the Five Hindrances are things we can all relate to; even the “jhana factors” I listed earlier make sense in the context of quiescing the discursive mind. But the four jhana states themselves sound like abstract, magical mumbo-jumbo.

And even if they are real, someone has got to find a better way to teach them. One doesn’t learn how to whistle by being told “Just blow long enough, and it’ll happen”; and one doesn’t learn how to swim by being told “Keep splashing around on your own and one day you’ll magically become a master swimmer”. You need someone to directly show you the techniques of how to whistle, how to swim… and how to meditate, achieve, and recognize these abstract, theoretical mental states.

For me, no matter how much of the official doctrine Bhante Seela cited, the jhanas simply don’t pass the Kalama test. In the Pali canon’s Kalama Sutta, the Buddha tells the Kalama tribe to accept as true only those teachings that one has personally verified are skillful, blameless, praiseworthy, and conducive to happiness; and to expressly reject teachings that derive from blind faith, dogmatism, and belief spawned from specious reasoning. And the jhanas demand a whole lot of the latter.

After Bhante Seela’s academic theorizing, the final two days’ talks were given by Bhante G., and I was eager to hear how he would follow up. Thankfully, as a non-academic, Bhante G. is more personable and more encouraging than Bhante Seela, which was reassuring in itself.

In the meditations he led, he ended each sitting by reciting verse 372 of the Dhammapada, one of the earliest Buddhist texts:

There is no concentration without wisdom,
Nor wisdom without concentration.
One who has both wisdom and concentration
Is close to peace and emancipation.

This is the central theme of his teaching. Here “concentration” is a reference to jhana practice, and “wisdom” is shorthand for Insight or Vipassana practice. While the two are often considered completely separate practices, Bhante G. says they are parallel roads, different but complementary ways of reaching the same destination. After all, Vipassana constitutes Right Mindfulness, the seventh element of the Buddha’s Noble Eightfold Path, while Right Concentration (the jhanas) comprises the eighth. That helped me put concentration practice into a better perspective.

But where I most benefited from Bhante G.’s wisdom was in the group interview I attended, where I was able to ask “How can you tell you’ve reached a jhana state if you don’t experience something as unmistakable as those bright-light nimittas?” His answer was packed with insightful nuggets.

First, one should look at those factors that co-arise with jhana: applied thought, sustained thought, single-pointedness, happiness, bliss, and equanimity. Those are a lot more concrete than the four abstract jhana levels. He said that entering the first jhana isn’t that hard to do for an experienced practitioner, but it’s a subtle and difficult thing to see. He said I might have achieved it many times, but who can say? You just have to judge for yourself. The important thing is to just practice. Concern yourself with your own mind, not the esoteric theories about signs and levels.

His advice was personal, immediate, practical, and encouraging… way more useful than any of the infographics Bhante Seela had presented. I’m so glad that I got into this retreat and had the opportunity to have an exchange with him, while he is still well enough to teach. It was touching when, on the last day of the retreat, I ran into him on his daily walk and we exchanged smiles.

So where did I wind up as far as jhana practice? While I didn’t get confirmation that jhanas exist or not, I did get a degree of practical clarity. Taking Bhante G.’s words to heart, I’m not going to pay a lot of attention to the jhanas. I’ll continue to practice meditation of various flavors (Vipassana/Insight, concentration, and samatha/calmness), with the main focus on evolving my relationship to desire, aversion, impermanence, ethics, and renunciation.

With that, let’s dump all this philosophy. “How was it?” I hear you asking. Well, lemme tellya…

Long retreats hurt. Despite their obvious benefit, I dread them. Even though I use a meditation bench, long periods of sitting hurt both my knees and back, and my knee pain turned severe this time. On top of that, my yogi job was washing dishes, and their sinks are definitely not at a height for normal-sized humans.

There’s also an odd kind of discomfort associated with heightened mindfulness. I would spend all day building up my mindfulness, only to find it difficult to relax and fall asleep at night, because I was so busy noticing and observing everything. Once you’re in that mental state, you can’t simply shut it off, which in my experience leads to a particular kind of retreat fatigue. I find that far more uncomfortable than the more-frequently reported discomfort returning to mainstream society following a long retreat.

Rather than being put up in a dormatory, for the first time ever I got my very own kuti, a tiny one-person cabin off on its own, used as a living space by monastics. It was little more than an uninsulated wooden shed, with a twin mattress and just enough space to squeeze around it on three sides. No electricity, but two windows. I guess it fit the modern idea of a “tiny house”. Thankfully, there weren’t too many insects inside, though I was still glad to have brought bug repellent. I was assigned the cabin named “Panna”, which is Pali for “wisdom”.

The weather. The first three days were hot and sunny, which I enjoyed, despite the lack of aircon. Although the heat was supposed to hold all week, the weather turned very rainy and cold from Wednesday through Sunday. Several times so much rain fell that the short, grassy downhill path to my kuti spontaneously turned into a rushing brook!

Flora and fauna everywhere. Poison ivy. Fireflies. A deer outside my kuti one morning. Termites or something loudly trying to bore into the kuti all day and night long until the rains came and drove them off. Ridiculously loud and annoying tree frogs that trilled back and forth to one another from 8pm to 11pm, sounding for all the world like dueling car alarms. Great for practicing equanimity, but not so great for actually sleeping.

And Buddy. We were told that we’d see Buddy, their tabby cat, who might come and sit in your lap. Monday evening, during a ten-minute break between sittings, I ran into him outside the main building, introduced myself, and made friends. I sat cross-legged in the driveway, and he climbed into my lap and promptly fell asleep. I saw him a couple more times, but he too disappeared once the rain started. I mused that although I hadn’t experienced the Buddhist concept of “no-self”, I did understand “no-Buddy” (nobody).

Other oddities, for your amusement…

Bhavana’s retreat FAQ suggests bringing earplugs, and those were key! I’ve already mentioned the nightly amphibian car alarm chorus and the termites or whatever was chewing its way into my shack. On top of that, the kuti came with a battery-powered clock whose second hand ticked louder than its built-in alarm; I yanked its batteries on the second day. Then the pounding rain on the kuti’s roof topped it all off. Without my earplugs I wouldn’t have gotten any sleep at all.

There’s always one… Normally people claim a spot in the meditation hall and have one zabuton (mat) and one zafu (a tall cushion) or meditation bench. One guy sitting a couple rows in front of me built and sat atop a ziggurat composed of no less than three zabutons, a square cushion, two zafus, and another square cushion, with a bench nearby, just in case. He was perched more than two feet off the floor! Which I think is a violation of the vow we took on the first day to uphold the Eight Precepts, specifically the vow to refrain from using high or luxurious beds and seats. Ridiculous!

The food. Normal people always crow about how great retreat food is; I’m too finicky for that, but I found everything surprisingly palatable. Plus there were a couple treats, such as Nutella, Gatorade, and one day we got orange juice. They also provided Sriracha sauce, which I found helped many dishes, except loading up on it wasn’t always the best idea, since I usually didn’t fetch anything to drink with my meal! Still, when the retreat ended, I made a quick stop at Dairy Queen for a Dilly Bar, then grabbed a cola and potato chips to enjoy on the drive home.

My yogi job washing dishes provided some entertainment. I’m used to turning dishwashing gloves inside-out to dry, which is difficult to do unless you know this secret: blow into them like a balloon to reverse the fingers. But somehow I managed to explode two gloves by blowing too hard into them! They blew up with impressively loud bangs during an otherwise silent retreat!

At one point (for some unknown reason) the cook pulled me aside to tell me he thought I looked like Frank Zappa. “Maybe it’s the ponytail?” That’s a new one on me. In the past I’ve drawn comparisons to David Beckham, Steven Seagal, Fabio Lanzoni, and (in a swipe from the ex-wife) Star Trek’s emotionless Mr. Spock.

Even with all this zaniness, it was a good and productive retreat, although three weeks later my knees are still recovering. I was able to meet and practice with Bhante Gunaratana, a cherished teacher whose career is nearing its conclusion; and I gained some clarity about how to practice with and relate to the jhanas (or not). It gave me what my practice needed, and was quite a memorable experience.

Upon coming home, I felt a huge sense of relief. Not because of the retreat, but because I had concluded four months of frequent travel: two weeks gallivanting around Asia in March, a week in Italy in May, and another week on retreat in West Virginia in June. It’s nice to visit new places, but home will always be home, and I was eager to hole up for a while in a familiar place. I wouldn’t mind if there were a few less-eventful weeks in store for me now!

Thailand

May. 2nd, 2018 08:58 am

My second and final weekend in Southeast Asia, Inna and I flew up to Phuket, Thailand for sightseeing and tigers!

While this blogpost only covers our weekend in Thailand, you can read about the rest of my two weeks in Malaysia here, and our other weekend side-trip to Singapore here.

Saturday, 24 March 2018

Saturday morning Inna and I were up early and caught another Grab car to KLIA. While there, we both picked up some chocolate, then got brunch at a place called Secret Recipe. I got a tasty “cheesy fire chicken wrap”.

Family Portrait

Family Portrait

Share the Road

Share the Road

Thailand

Main Street, Thailand

Git the Belly!

Git the Belly!

Give Skull

Give Skull

Motivating the Predator

Motivating the Predator

Good Rubs

Good Rubs

Eye of the Tiger

Eye of the Tiger

Want Some Tongue?

Want Some Tongue?

I Can Has Belly?

I Can Has Belly?

Tiger Ham

Tiger Ham

Buddhist Flags

Buddhist Flags

Temple Shrines

Temple Shrines

Phuket Sunset

Phuket Sunset

A Piece of Thailand

A Piece of Thailand

Full Thailand Photoset

Our flight on Malindo Air was quiet, with a landing that passed just feet over the Mai Khao beach before touching down. In fact, the landing strip is so close to the shore that the airport’s colored landing lights extend far out into the ocean, which we could later see shining on the horizon from our resort. We de-planed, got some Thai baht, and hit immigration to obtain more passport “cheese”.

Thailand! For me, who has derived a lot of benefit from the Thai Forest tradition of Buddhism, visiting Thailand was the fulfillment of a lifetime dream. Even though a meditation retreat wasn’t on our agenda, just setting foot in Thailand was a very big deal for me.

As a tourist haven, Phuket isn’t exactly a remote forest monastery. Instead, the island features a ton of super popular beaches, and is also the site of some of the worst devastation from the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami that killed a quarter million people. On top of that, Phuket set my new high-water mark for westward travel.

What surprised both Inna and I was the immediate and pervasive presence of Russian signage alongside Thai and English and Chinese. There were Russian signs everywhere—down to the take-out pizza menu in our hotel room!—and lots of Russian being spoken by airport visitors. Inna was most surprised that the people speaking unaccented Russian were very obviously ethnically and genetically Asian; logical, since the USSR spanned the entire width of Asia, but a surprise nonetheless!

It was a long but fascinating 75-minute cab ride from the airport to the resort. Avoiding the main highway, the driver took us along narrow back-country roads; at one point, we had to stop while a water buffalo blocked our way! Then we reached more built-up areas that match every stereotype of dumpy poverty-ridden Third World commercial blight, interspersed with stomach-turning party towns full of foreign tourists and the predatory natives who cater to them. Along the way, I tried to recall the Thai I’d learned in an adult ed course ten years ago, while Inna tried to avoid getting carsick from the twisting, bouncing ride.

I was frustrated by two odd technological limitations. First, although the Google Maps app allows you to download offline maps that you can use when not connected to the internet, maps of Thailand are not available. Fortunately, I’d been warned of this and downloaded dedicated maps. Secondly, the difficult Thai script would be the ideal use case for the Google Translate app’s ability to translate script shot using a phone’s camera, but again, that is not allowed. So the Thai government actually outscored Singapore as a visitor-unfriendly police state!

We arrived at Karon Beach and checked into our hotel—the Movenpick—which provided us with nice little lei-style flower wristlets. Our room came with a huge king-sized bed comprised of two twin mattresses side-by-side, as well as a balcony with views of both the ocean and the main pool area. Reminiscent of the strange electrically-frosted glass at the hotel back in Singapore, there were big wooden panels between the bedroom and the bathroom that you could slide aside to reveal a pass-through style opening. Strange!

Arriving around dinnertime, we walked the length of the resort’s large landscaped compound to their Brazilian restaurant. Along the way, we checked out the hotel lobby, the main and satellite pools, the spa, and the grounds overall. We also stumbled into their rec room, featuring a pool table with purple felt, and a pink foosball table! But overall, we were very pleased with the resort.

At the restaurant, I got a nice sirloin, some mediocre corn on the cob, and a new first: a Nutella milkshake! Meanwhile, Inna… Well, let’s see if I can do this justice. What does a Jewish woman born in the Ukraine, with an Israeli childhood, living in America, working on a project in Malaysia, on vacation in Thailand, who doesn’t eat beef, order for dinner? Brazilian charrusco barbecue, of course!

After dinner, since we were close to the beach, we crossed the busy main drag and checked it out. It was quiet and dark, in contrast to the loud commercial chaos along Beach Road. Some people had lit a paper lantern-balloon, and let it soar into the night sky.

Heading back to the hotel, we made our way to the room and turned in for the evening.

Sunday, 25 March 2018

Waking up early again, I let Inna sleep and got some sunrise photos from our balcony overlooking the Movenpick compound, the beach, and the Andaman Sea. Once Inna roused, we checked out Pacifica—the hotel’s breakfast buffet—which was excellent. Then we waited for a cab to take us to our morning destination.

Before my trip, Inna and I had kicked around ideas for where we might go. Langkawi? Panang? Bangkok? Angkor Wat? I considered staying in Kuala Lumpur to catch the final stage of the Tour de Langkawi bicycle race. We didn’t solidify on Phuket until Inna noticed one of her local coworker’s profile icons on Whatsapp: a young lady hugging a tiger. When Inna learned that there was a place in Phuket called Tiger Kingdom that let you pet tigers of all ages that had been raised in captivity… Well, our destination was set. So off we went!

Tiger Kingdom was absolutely amazing! You get 10-15 minutes in the enclosure with 3-5 animals, their watchful handlers, and an optional photographer. The place seemed well-run; the tigers looked healthy, the place didn’t smell, and the staff were attentive.

We spent time with tigers of three of the four age groups: smallest, small, and big cats (passing on “medium”). The smallest guys, about six months old, were utterly kittenish and adorable. Our first little guy was completely passed out, and what struck me was the immense size of his paws! Then, when another group left the enclosure, their more active tiger cub bounded over. At first, I was startled, but the keepers were okay with it, and the new kit decided to spend his time gnawing on our sleepy boy’s head. We also got to play with one girl who was teething and wanted to bite everything in sight (we were given a convenient log to proffer).

The biggest and smallest cats were most popular, so we were the only people visiting the “small” cat enclosure, and the handlers let us stay in there a good long time. Don’t let the “small” fool you, though; these were big, solid predators! We didn’t bring our photographer into this enclosure, which was too bad, because in the heat and humidity, my phone’s camera decided to act up badly.

We finished by visiting the Big Cats, and despite being huge, they were all pretty chill. In the midday heat, one was enjoying a big block of ice placed against her back, and then casually smacked Inna right in the face with the flick of a surprisingly solid tail.

Inna had been excited even before our hour-long visit, but she was downright giddy the whole time, which I found heartwarming. It’s not often she’s so unreservedly demonstrative, and I’m glad I could be there in person to share this experience with her. I was equally delighted, too, although hopefully a little less overtly. It was a stupefyingly cool experience.

To be honest, there’s no way to communicate how awesome it was to sit there, grab a great big tiger’s paw, and rub his belly. In the photos, both Inna and I are having the time of our lives, so I’ll let the photos do most of the talking. As Inna crowed, it was probably the best money we’ve ever spent.

On the return trip, our cab dropped us off on Beach Road, so we visited the beach again. The sea was blue, but not quite the turquoise of the Caribbean, because the Andaman drops off quickly once you’re away from the shoreline. We watched as a parasailer donned a life preserver and got strapped into her safety harness and took off from the beach. Just as the chute was about to be dragged into the air by the motorboat it was tethered to, her local handler, dressed only in a tee shirt and shorts, leapt up into the parachute’s lines, hanging precariously above the tourist’s head, doing the required steering.

The hot sun was too much for Inna, so we crossed back across to the resort, picking up ice creams on our way back to our room. After downloading and checking out all the tiger photos, she and I opted to go separate ways.

I grabbed my camera and hurried off toward town, interested in visiting the local Buddhist vihara: Wat Karon. It was quiet, and I didn’t see anyone other than some guys doing construction, so I just wandered around the grounds, taking lots of pictures. I left a couple dollars, some Thai baht, and some Malaysian ringgits in their donation box before taking my leave. I strolled through town before returning to the hotel room.

Meanwhile, Inna had gone to the resort’s spa for a massage (her credit card receipt says she purchased “1 ORIENTAL FOOT”), so I grabbed a towel and headed across to the beach, intent on absorbing some Thai sun on the last tanning opportunity of my Asian trip. I took a nice, relaxing swim in the Andaman, then dried off in the late-afternoon sun.

After returning to our room, I captured some excellent sunset photos from our balcony before meeting back up with Inna. On the way down to dinner, we hit the gift shop, where I picked up a nice little copper-colored Buddha painting to bring home: to be treasured as an authentic Buddhist item that I had picked up myself on a trip to Thailand!

My dinner, in the transformed Pacifica breakfast space, was a tasty Thai cashew chicken dish. Then back to our room to hang and enjoy our dwindling time in Phuket.

Monday, 26 March 2018

We had a languorous Monday morning, realizing that in less than 24 hours I’d be headed back to Pittsburgh. Inna looked and sounded happier and more relaxed than she’d been after her initial arrival in Malaysia.

We packed up and had another nice breakfast where I opted to try a taste of kimchee. Then we settled with the hotel and hopped our long van ride back to Phuket Airport. This time, the hotel’s driver took the busy, ugly commercial main highway all the way, but it was still interesting.

At immigration, we waited in a huge line full of Russians before getting our exit visa stamps. We endured some confusion due to a gate change, plus having to board a bus that drove us across the tarmac to our plane. The flight back to Kuala Lumpur was a little turbulent, but we landed, sidestepped past customs, and I got my third Malaysian entry stamp in ten days, followed by the usual cab ride home.

Leaving KLIA at 5pm, I would have less than 12 hours in Kuala Lumpur before I was back at the airport for my flight home. That evening was a blur of preparation: dinner at the hotel restaurant (Tex-Mex pizza), unpacking from Thailand and repacking everything to go home, taking a shower, ordering a 4am cab, and heading to bed.

Looking back on Thailand, what remains with me are the incredible contrasts. The most advanced Buddhist country in the world! But wow it’s a commercial dump! But the resort is really awesome! I can’t help but feel the dissonance of a reflective Buddhist culture coexisting with hedonistic beach towns of commercialized hell, massage parlors, pleasure girls, and a disturbing number of recreational shooting ranges.

All the same, between the beach and the tigers and it being Thailand and sharing all of it with Inna… it was an incredible and very memorable trip.

As you might imagine, there are a ton of amazing photos, so you should check out my full Phuket photoset. And you can get Inna’s perspective in her Phuket overview and Tiger Kingdom blogposts.

As mentioned above, you can continue reading about the rest of my trip in my Malaysia blogpost, as well as the side trip we made the previous weekend in my Singapore blogpost.

Frequent topics